Restored W-30 Clone? 1970 Oldsmobile 442
The 442 (or 4-4-2) was Oldsmobile’s entry into the 1960s mid-size muscle car market. And it would remain a fixture there through the end of rear-wheel-drive in these hot cars (1987). Its name is commonly considered an abbreviation for four-barrel carburetor, four-speed manual transmission, and dual exhausts. In 1970, a 455 cubic inch V8 would become standard, making it one of the hottest entries out of Detroit. The seller’s car is a fairly rare convertible, but not a real W-30 as the insignia on the front fenders indicate. It’s a nice driver-quality vehicle that was treated to a restoration some years ago. Located in Tuckahoe, New York, this drop-top is available here on eBay where $35,500 is the top ante thus far.
Before 1970, General Motors had mandated that none of its mid-size performance cars could have anything over 400 cubic inches under the hood. They finally relented and Oldsmobile responded with its biggest V8 ever. The “standard” 455 was rated at 365 hp and you could add five more horses if you went with the W-30 option. The seller says this car is a real deal 442 but did not come with the latter option though the fenders say otherwise. Besides functional hood scoops, the W-30 would have added a special intake manifold, camshaft, cylinder heads, and other adjustments to get more power. 2,933 442 convertibles were built that year of which just 264 had the W-30. So, this drop-top still is rare at one of 2,869.
We’re told the seller believes this Olds is numbers matching. And finished in its original color of Matador Red (although some paint in the trunk suggests otherwise). The car was restored years back and is nice, but far from perfect. It may be one of those autos that looks great at 10 feet! The hood does have air induction and is made of fiberglass, perhaps added at the time of the restoration. Everything is said to work except for the factory air conditioning.
Later updates include a rebuild of the front end, new tires, and a refurbished radiator and carburetor. All this adds up to a good-running vehicle that should cruise along at 80 mph – until the next gas station. Some 138,000 miles have been put on the hottie, though we don’t know how many of those are since the vehicle was redone. The seller is reported to be its third owner and has nicely taken care of it. However the sales presentation would be better using phone cameras in the landscape mode rather than the portrait position to get the entire vehicle in the image.
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Comments
I have one almost like it in my garage. Mine is the W-30, but is a hardtop and the body is gold in color. Why gold? I liked that color that year and mine has 107,000 miles on it. I still drive it about 300-400 miles a year.
So, it is a 442 with its original motor? It all works except for the air? Everything is original to the car except maybe the OAI hood and the W30 call outs? What was the point?
Aside from that it’s a great looking car.
Those colored Super Stock II Wheels were not from the factory. Super Stock II’s were black only. Super Stock III ‘s were color keyed or brushed aluminum.
The wheels on the car are SS l’s, not the SS ll. Color keyed wheels were not available in 1970. The SS1’s were black, the SS ll were Argent. The trunk stripes are horrible, the wing, equally horrible. The car needs a lot of little items, but nicely optioned with the Rally Pack and Dual Gate and factory AC. The owners comment “Believed to be original 455” is a little troubling, and the comment about the 12 bolt rear is always deceiving, or the owner really doesn’t know much about it. The Chevrolet 12 bolt, with 12 bolts securing the ring gear to the carrier is what people think of when the term 12 bolt rear is thrown around. This car has a Type O rear, 12 bolt cover, with 10 bolts holding the ring gear. Completely different axle design. This could be a nice car with some love and a few $$ thrown it’s way.
Everything about this car is WRONG.
The seller of this car would physical shudder if they read these comments.
The truth hurts.
His n Her Hurst automatic. 😍
His/hers only came in the Hurst Olds or GTO. I had 70 Y74 (Pace Car) that didn’t even come with the His/Hers. However, my 73 Hurst Olds and 67 GTO came with them (slightly different variations though).
I agree on the damn wing on the trunk. The only cars that Olds should have that on is the 69 and 83 Hurst Olds. This wing fascination baffles me. It detracts from the smooth lines of the body. Also the W-30 emblems are poorly placed on the fenders. Why can’t folks just let it be what it is. I guess I am an Olds purist and these silly ad ons do nothing to enhance the vehicle.
Chevy called. They want their Chevelle stripes back. Also the wing was never factory available on the convertible because it looks goofy. Have any of these cars NOT been turned into fake W30s with the repro hood and wing?
Joe,
Did you ever receive my PM on CO about my ‘69 442?
Buddy
I’m not a fan of the Chevelle stripes under the add on wing either
Somebody help me with this please . . . my buddy had a 1968 442 in high school, and I’m 99% sure it had a 455 under the hood.
Hurst/Olds were an exception to the GM 400 CID limitation rule” (some silliness to “protect” the Corvette from being possibly beaten by the intermediates was my understanding). This along with special COPO Chevrolets, were able to get around this prior to 1970. 1968 HurstOlds 442 had the 455.
1% for the win. All 68 442s had the 400 from the factory. Only the Hurst had the 455.
If it had a 455 under the hood it was a later addition. I had a ‘68 442 400/4 speed. It could haul the mail!
Joe,
Did you ever receive my PM on CO about my ‘69 442?
Buddy
Ugly stripes, ugly wing, ugly wheels. A clone with no sense of aesthetics.
I agree, never liked the look, especially on convertibles. Add the decklid stripes and it just looks goofy.
Fortunately, all you need to take it off is a socket wrench. Patching the holes left behind is a bit more involved, but at least you can remove the trunk lid and not have to repaint the whole car! The cheap way out would be just to plug the holes with rubber plugs, painted to match the body color to hide the plugs. The right way to do it is to weld the holes shut, grind the welds smooth, and repaint the deck lid, but hey, whatever floats your boat!